Exploring Croatia: The Path of Brave Women (Put Hrabrih Žena)

Yesterday, I was led on a hike and tour by a newly formed group of creative storytellers -the Association of Tourist Guides Makarska Rivijera i Zabiokovlje.

During the hike and tour: Put Hrbabrih Žena (The Path of Brave Women), the guides introduced me to the foothills of Biokovo and shared beautiful stories about brave women from these parts.

Since moving to Makarska, I have seen the foothills from afar but have not explored the area. I was excited to listen to the stories of brave women from these parts, take in the scenery, and spend a few hours hiking through my ‘backyard.’

There must have been 40 of us on tour -maybe more. Mostly women. We started the walk in Veliko Brdo and continued the hike through Makar and then to Koština.

I spent most of the time taking in the stories and the majestic scenery, taking notes on my phone, and trying to capture as much as possible. There was a lot!

Instead of highlighting ALL the stories on the hike, I thought I would share a few things I learned.

Because why would I give away the tour? That’s their storytelling. This is mine.

1. Brave Woman:Ledarka Mara Bašković from Veliki Brdo

   Over 70 years ago, Mara went to the mountains almost every day with her father to extract ice and then returned to the city and sold that ice to butchers and hotels of the time.

   Mara sometimes would carry 100 kilos of ice (on her back!) from the mountains to the seaside.

   While the tour guide shared Mara’s story, I thought about my babas (grandmothers) and their life in Hercegovina.

   I thought about their relationship with the land. And while they may not have carried 100 kilos of ice on their backs, I am certain they carried a great deal on their backs throughout their lives.

2. Brave Act: The Art of Traditional Tattooing

   The stories around this art form are rich and beautiful and sometimes sad. Traditional tattooing was often done for protection and, of course, to tell a story.

   I learned that at one time, there were only two days when women could be tattooed. Ivan Dan (December 27) and Josip Dan (March 19).

   I thought about my Baba Ruška and her cross tattoo during this talk. I thought about her story. I thought about all the questions I didn’t get to ask about her relationship with that tattoo.

I am thankful to this group of storytellers for creating this hike and tour. It was a unique way to highlight some brave women who carved out a life for themselves and their families in the Biokovo foothills.

I am thankful that a group of storytellers has come together to highlight such rich stories from this area I now call home.

Thank you for keeping the past alive with your storytelling.

Thank you for allowing me to connect your stories with those of my babas - two women I consider brave.

Thank you for enriching my Adriatic adventure.

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